Put the water to boil in a pot with a thick bottom along with the butter and salt. Once it comes to a boil, add the flour all at once and stir vigorously on low heat until the dough separates from the walls. Remove from the heat and add the eggs one at a time, stirring well after each.
Add the nutmeg, black pepper if desired and grated cheese, if it is hard (or crumbled, if it is soft) to the homogeneous dough. Put the mixture into an icing piping syringe and spray out the salty éclairs into balls into a tray with baking paper, with some space between them. Put them to bake in a preheated oven at 392°F (200 °C), for about 25 minutes.
Do not open the door, watch them through it. Once baked, leave the salted éclairs to cool with an open oven door. Optionally, you can fill them with a salty cream made from sour cream, mayonnaise and dill.